Caerphilly was first produced on farms in and around the town of Caerphilly, Wales as a cheese for farm workers, miners, and other tradespeople. Miners especially enjoyed the cheese, wrapping it in a cabbage leaf to take to work, because the thick rind made it easy to hold without smudging the paste with coal dust. Some also believed the cheese combated the ill effects of their underground profession. Throughout the 1800s, the popularity of small production Caerphilly grew until the early 1900s when cheesemaking was hit with industrialization and much of the production moved to factories. The farmhouse version of Caerphilly almost completely disappeared by 1950 when only one farm was left. Throughout the rest of the century, Chris Duckett, that last intrepid farmer, promoted artisanally made Caerphilly, and inspired and taught Todd Trethowan, maker of Gorwydd Caerphilly.

Todd Trethowan took what he learned from Chris and moved from London back to Wales to build his own creamery in his parents’ farm. Soon, his brother Maugan and sister-in-law Kim joined the business, and the three decided to go on the hunt for the best milk. They found it in Somerset, and so moved their production to southern England. With raw milk cheese, it is especially important to have the highest quality milk because the flavor deeply affects the flavor in the cheese. Clearly, they found some great milk because the cheese is complex in flavor and beautiful to look at with its butter yellow paste and suede grey rind. It is tangy and nutty, with a touch of earth and fresh cream. Add a thick slice of Caerphilly to a crisp piece of toast with butter and jam for a tart, sweet snack.