Hungry for Haget
Emmanuel ‘Manu’ Haget has a keen eye for nature’s intricacies, making his shift from scientist to winemaker a natural and fortuitous one. Fueled by a passion for biodynamic farming and ecological harmony, Manu embarked on the new world of winemaking after two years of training at Domaine des Noades, nestled in the small village of Argentay.
It is here where Manu’s winemaking story begins when he met famed winemaker Philippe Gourdon, one of the forerunners of biodynamic viticulture in the Saumur region, who was looking to pass on his vineyards as he approached retirement. Manu took over Philippe’s 3.8-hectare estate in Puy-Notre-Dame and in 2017 his first vintage was eagerly released.
Puy-Notre-Dame is a medieval town perched upon white tuffeau, or chalky limestone, mixed with blue slate and red clay (colors of France!), which are all unique to this specific area of the expansive Loire Valley. Highlighting this unique terroir is Manu’s primary objective in his meticulous, low-intervention winemaking. The origin of the name ‘puy’ comes from the Celtic ‘peuch,’ or ‘small mountain,” and over 1500 hectares of vines surround the town tended by 70 growers. In fact, almost half of the Saumur appellation’s entire wine production comes from the town of Puy-Notre-Dame, which was officially designated an AOC wine area in 2009. Besides wine, this rural area is also known for its mushroom cultivation, old-school fruit-based confit and jam-making, as well as the Retro Grand Prix. Every July the roar of vintage car engines can be heard rumbling through the picturesque countryside.
As one of the area’s established biodynamic winemakers, Manu approaches farming as a way to maintain and improve soil fertility, and employs hand-harvesting for a purer expression of the grapes. The vines are armed to fight against disease, and he sometimes uses a technique of spraying the vines with homemade herbal tea of nettle and horsetail, which serves as “Vitamin C,” a technique Manu learned from his predecessors.
Manu’s playful Préambule Pét-Nat is a sparkling gem with notes of strawberry candies and ginger from the grapes Pineau d’Aunis and Cabernet Franc. The same grape duo are blended for his savory Loustic Rouge, which boasts brightness in each sip, bringing to mind fresh raspberries and buttered toast. His 100% Cabernet Franc in Clos Messemé Saumur reveals the presence of limestone soil, culminating in ripe cherry cola notes and a hint of tannic elegance.
Join us on Saturday, March 30th, between 4-6 PM when Jackson from Mise Wines opens Manu Haget’s wines for all to try. Our wine tastings are free to join!
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