Crushin' on Pearl Morissette
If you’re already a fan of Alsatian, Loire Valley, or even Austrian wine, you will fall in love with Pearl Morissette’s wines. The winery Pearl Morissette is located on the Canadian side of Niagara Falls, just a short distance from Buffalo, NY. While many associate Canadian wine with sweetness like ice wine, Pearl Morissette focuses on densely textured, drier wines from cool climate grapes, as well as lighter, more acid-driven red wines. Heartier grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon thrive in this chilly climate of the Niagara Peninsula thanks to Lake Ontario. This deep, expansive lake retains heat and warms the freezing winds that ultimately helps regulate the grapes’ temperature as it ripens.
Co-founder and winemaker François Morissette spent a year learning the essentials of winemaking in Burgundy before moving to Quebec where he worked as a restaurant sommelier. He became intrigued by viticulture and returned to Burgundy, this time for 7 years, to grow his skill as a vigneron. When he returned to his homeland of Canada to pursue his own winemaking venture, he met Mel Pearl and their company Pearl Morissette was born in 2007. Together they run both the winery and a fine dining restaurant that serves their own wine, including back vintages, as well as a smattering of international wine with similar ethos.
François prefers to be called a vigneron instead of a winemaker. Vigneron is a French term which, similar to terroir, takes on an almost mystical component. To this Montreal native, François’ ideal role of a vigneron is a Yoda or a Merlin type wine wizard, and someone who is simply guiding grapes to their destiny. As a child in Montreal, François first noticed that everytime wine was portrayed in movies and books the people were enjoying it as much as the company. That simple observation led to a career in wine! Happy wines make for a happy life.
The following poetic language on Pearl Morissette’s website page titled ‘Ethos,’ describes their delicate, hands off winemaking philosophy:
In this parcel of Niagara, we honour authenticity in everything we do.
In wine, in food, and in life.
There is no dogma.
There is no premeditated outcome.
We take a pragmatic approach in seeking what nature has intended.
Which is why these wines are based less on what we do,
and more on what we don’t do.
2017 Pearl Morissette Irreverence Blanc is the perfect accompaniment to the warmer weather headed our way! This blend of Riesling, Gewürztraminer, and Chardonnay was fermented separately in varying vessels including cement, stainless, and amphora, and were then aged together in foudre. The Irreverence has slight tannin from extended grape skin contact, and boasts savory, rich notes of spiced pear, cardamon, and white flowers.
François’ reds are both lighter-bodied thrumming with acidity. 2018 Pearl Morissette Violette is from the Cabernet Franc grape and was aged in concrete. This red is a whirlwind of lilacs, blackberries, and a touch of pepper. 2019 Pearl Morissette Furie is from Cabernet Sauvignon, whose ‘parent grape’ is Cabernet Franc, and has a bit more tannin than the Violette due to the extended aging in wood. It's a slowly unfolding kaleidoscope of red fruit, earth, stoniness and plums. Enjoy both light reds with a slight chill à la Canada!