Gaga for Ganevat
Fall isn’t fall without a bottle of Ganevat. There’s something about this special Jura wine that pairs so well with the changing leaves, hay bales, and apple picking in early autumn. Jean-François Ganevat crafts his wine in the quiet countryside of La Combe de Rotalier, outside of the busy cities of Lyon and Geneva. Jean-François (also known as Fanfan) comes from a long lineage of winegrowers, dating back to 1650, and also from a history of dairy farmers who sold milk for the famous cheese, Comté. It wasn’t until 1976 that Jean-François and his sister Anne decided to sell off their cows and focus solely on wine.
Jean-François is a master biodynamic winemaker who uses all natural production methods. His small team of 15 employees bottles an astounding 20-40 different cuvée annually. Grapes come from their own 13-hectares of vineyards, but they also purchase biodynamic fruit throughout Beaujolais, Alsace, and Savoie. Purchasing grapes is essential for winemakers if they’ve had a tough vintage, or harvest year, like this past year when climate issues like hail rocked the Jura resulting in much lower yields. In 2018, for example, such severe frosts hit Jura that yields were down by 63%, which meant that Jura wine producers lost the majority of their grapes.
Jean-François loves to experiment and creates amazing blends as well as single varietal wine. He is known to be a perfectionist so even though he experiments like a mad scientist, the resulting wines are clearly the creations of an expert.
We carry a few different Ganevat, but one that stands out is the stunning 2019 Domaine Jean-François Ganevat Les Chalasses Vieilles Vignes. This 100% Poulsard is from 50-year-old vines and aged in used Burgundy barrels for 2 years. It’s an incredibly pale rouge color reminiscent of changing autumn leaves. This is Poulsard at its best: fresh and light with a mighty personality and hallmark notes of fresh strawberry and spice. Try decanting this beauty when first opened; as Ganevat opens, notice the soaring floral aromas, tangy red fruit, savoriness, and length on the finish. Ganevat never, ever disappoints. Oh! And a must-try pairing is Poulsard and Comté! Yum!