Devon Blue, We Love You
I have a new favorite blue!! I think it could be your new favorite blue, too! So so so, this blue, Devon Blue, is a Brit, more crumbly than creamy, and almost butter yellow in color. It’s been a while since we had Devon Blue in stock, and I guess I had forgotten its greatness. But now it’s back and omg YUM!
Devon Blue was developed by Robin Congdon, a man who made very important contributions to the British cheese industry. In the 1970s and 80s, a time when consumers were getting much of their cheese from large factories, Robin convinced people to turn instead to small producers for superior flavor and texture. He created Devon Blue as a companion to his sheep’s milk blue, Beenleigh, and goat’s milk blue, Harbourne, and he played an invaluable role in bringing craft cheese, especially blue cheese, to the British public.
Ben Harris and his team at Ticklemore Cheese Dairy have taken up the mantle after Robin retired. They continue to use Robin’s recipes and techniques to produce delicious blues gobbled up by Brits and cheese lovers far beyond England’s shores. Since Ticklemore doesn’t have its own herd of cows, Ben buys milk from a local farmers co-op that includes farms within a ten mile radius of the Dairy. They heat this tasty local milk, add cultures and Penicillium Roqueforti (oh heyyy, blue mold), cut the curds, and pour them into forms.
For a couple days, they turn, turn, turn, turn the wheels to help the whey drain, then they unmold, salt, and move the wheels to a maturing room for three to four weeks. The cheeses are wrapped to inhibit rind development and aged for another eight-ish months. Then we feast!!
And oh, what a delicious feast. Devon Blue is slightly crumbly, perfect for cutting up into shards that are flaky and dense. The texture reminds me of a Cadbury Flake chocolate – delicate, but also rich. Though I consider this to be a milder blue, the flavors are quite complex, changing from the start to finish of one bite. First, the lemony acidity wakes up your palate. Then, flavors of turmeric, gentle pepper, and hay emerge. And finally, the finish brings a touch of brine and a KAPOW of super savory umami. Some batches we’ve had in the past are a bit sweeter, but this one is all citrus and grasses and grilled steak. Please try this on grilled steak, by the way, it’s flipping awesome.
For the love of cheese and new favorites,
Kiri
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P.S. I read this article in the Boston Globe on Sunday, and I wanted to share. It’s about Black farmers in New England, especially Vermont, and the people and organizations figuring out ways to make land more accessible to these farmers.