If you’ve ever spent any time in Vermont, I’m sure you’ve seen shirts, stickers, license plates, hats, with the slogan “Keep Vermont Weird.” It’s also a Twitter account and I know there’s a whole store on Church Street in Burlington dedicated to the saying. So many quirky and wonderful things come from Vermont, it is certainly fitting.

One of those things is Leon! a new cidery, grapey, cranberry-y fruit wine coming out of CO Cellars, a collaboration between Shacksbury (cider makers) and ZAFA Wines, both based in Vermont. We are super pumped to have this crazy cool bubbly drink for many reasons. Firstly, a collab with a wine producer and a cider producer is unusual and exciting. Secondly, it comes in a fun purple and pink can – just FYI, two cans = a bottle of wine, so maybe don’t chug it down like your favorite light beer. Thirdly, it tastes like tart, fresh fruit and it’s a touch salty. I love salty wines! And fourthly, CO Cellars has a limited supply, so we’re lucky to have it! Let’s pair it with some cheese because, duh, if you have a fun new drink, cheese must come along, too. (Read more here about CO Cellars!)

My first thought was Ascutney Mountain produced by Cobb Hill Cheese in Vermont, because of its brown butter, nutty flavors. It is a mellower cheese, so it is really a platform for the fruit wine to shine. Ascutney helps smooth the tannin and round out the flavor of the Leon!, so you’re ready for sip after sip.

Brabander, a bit stronger and richer than Ascutney Mountain, is also a fine cheese to balance the tart and tannic fruit wine. As a goat gouda, it has a touch of tartness, but it is also quite sweet and has a fudgy texture. This helps mellow the tannic body and cranberry pucker of the wine, creating a tasty back and forth of sip bite sip bite and on and on and on in snacking bliss.

Brabander is a good example of opposites making a good pair, but what if you want to lean into the crazy? Lean into the weird? Well, Barricato al Pepe, a cow’s milk cheese from Italy, would certainly take this pairing to a wacky place. Barricato is very firm with pepper scattered throughout the paste and covering the rind, and has a craggy texture, crumbling into large nuggets of salt and pepper goodness when sliced. It’s almost like eating salt and pepper potato chips! The pepper helps the cheese hold its own alongside the funky Leon!, while the drier texture ensures Barricato won’t overwhelm the drink.

So go a little weird or a lot weird, it’s all tasty! And while we’re trying this different and delicious food, let’s toast Vermont and all the wonderful makers like ZAFA Wines, Shacksbury, and Cobb Hill Cheese who craft such exciting products for us!

For the love of cheese and cool drinks to pair,

Kiri

Update: Still no luck on the Black American cheesemaker front. I think it’s time I start the more difficult work of looking closely at our industry and finding out why this is. And then next steps, of course. More on this next week because I clearly have a LOT of research to do…

On a more hopeful note, my brother told me about two farmers, Isaiah and Faheem, who have started a quarter acre organic urban farm in Bayview, San Francisco to help bring fresh produce to those who live in this food desert. This new green space will also beautify the area, provide educational opportunities for local students, and a refuge to various wildlife that exist in the city. So awesome, I’m in love with this project! If you’re interested in learning more, check out their GoFundMe page (Organically Grown Urban Farm Bayview SF), or @the_art_of_calibird on Instagram to watch their progress. I can’t wait to find out what urban farming is going on around us here, too!